We spent last weekend with a bunch of friends who wanted to share their latest masterpiece: restoring an ages-old lo’i (taro farm), and the ‘auwai (irrigation systems) that feed it the nourishing, flowing clean water it needs to grow. Deep in a valley above the Guard Rails surf spot in West Maui, the drive to this area takes you through a development of multi-million dollar homes landscaped with a Palm Springs-esque desert vibe and down dirt roads carved into tall, tan grass.
Following our navigator directing us by phone, we reached a steep driveway that led us into a lush, green valley. This valley is located in the leeward area of West Maui, which is drier because the winds don’t often take storms to the area. All water coming to the area is routed from the top of the West Maui mountains (The Hawaiian name for the mountains is “Kahalewai”, meaning House of Water.). There is a drastic difference between this valley and the areas we had driven through to get there.
Charlie greets us and takes us on a tour of his handiwork and persistence, and tells us of his struggles in bringing water into the lo’i, which require thousands of gallons of flowing spring water per day to cultivate. Right now, his water flows through a 6-inch pipe over hundreds of feet before it gets to the auwai at his lo’i. Charlie’s had to fight non-stop to improve his stream flow to get enough to have a healthy lo’i. He says the “powers-that-be” are tired of getting his phone calls asking for more water. He says that the stream barely runs in summertime and that instead the water goes to feed lawns in a neighboring leeward development.
Over the past 6 years, Charlie has been constantly working to clear away overgrown haole koa (an invasive tree native to Central America) and giant boulders that seem to have been intentionally pushed into the ancient ‘auwai, blocking the flow of water.
Charlie can’t even count the number of generations his ‘ohana have spent on this ahapua’a, doing what they took on as a responsibility to serve their chiefs (or ali’i), their neighbors, and the land – their stewardship formally and legally granted by the Hawaiian Kingdom in the mid 1800s. See, Native Hawaiians were never taught to own land, or the water that flows through it. They were the stewards of the land parcel called the ahapua’a, caring for the ‘aina, and tending to the flowing water that comes from the mountaintops and eventually reaches the sea.
According to a legal article from Harvard Law, the ahapua’a is a clearly defined system:
“The ancient Hawaiian land tenure system encouraged sufficiency within an ahupua‘a. The ahupua‘a is most commonly understood as a division of land running from the mountains (mauka)to the sea (makai). The ahupua‘a supplied food and materials to the maka‘ainana (commoner residents/tenants) who tended the land, as well as to the konohiki (overseers).”
In short, they would steward the land to care for themselves and for the ali’i. They consistently had more food than they needed, and shared and traded freely with other ahapua’a. Sure, they served the King, but this system naturally compelled the average person to live according to a healthy sustainable agriculture model. It’s arguable the world’s most sustainable food production system.
And get this. Ali’i traditionally ruled over several ahapua’a and competed with other chiefs. What did they compete for, you ask? Well, they competed in the arena of happiness.
The chief that took best care of his people, won the title.
Stunned? I was. When I first learn this tidbit of history, I my mind couldn’t stop reeling, “Why did I not know this? Why does this shock me? Why haven’t we been living like this all along?” My point is, this is a pretty noble, important effort going on right now over at Charlie’s place. A return to a simpler, healthier, and safer way of sustaining the community, and bringing back an ancient gem, in one of the wettest places on earth. Sounds so wonderful. Almost like heaven. Speaking ecologically, Hawaii is the wettest place on Earth, and if you follow the streams up the mountain behind Charlie’s house, you’ll reach the second rainiest place on Earth. What a blessed arrangement.
Okay. Now for the real question: If that’s the case, why does Charlie need to move the water from a water diversion damn a short way’s up the mountain? Why does he have to settle for a 6-inch pipe, not even entirely full with water flow?
It’s enough to make me feel dehydrated.
Enter the taro farmer-watershed movement. For those paying attention, we’ve seen people like Charlie before. We’ve seen families who are entitled to kuleana lands taking their water back by showing their dedication to the ‘aina. Those who have really seen this in action understand it’s about building sustainable community, not just about taro.
After visiting with Charlie and feeling his enthusiasm and belief in the empowering role sustainable farming to bring to one’s family and community, Joe and I have decided to take on a new documentary project. We want to see Charlie’s lo’i return to “full”. We want to see that water reach the ocean. And we want to make sure we capture it on gorgeous 24p digital video to share with the world.
If you’d like to keep informed of our progress, keep visiting this site, or subscribe to get blog updates!
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Very interesting post. Such a rich and intriguing history.
The next time I get to visit with you guys in Maui I’d love to see some stuff like this – pitch in and get my hands dirty as well.
Some pictures would go really well with this kind of post – put a face to the names, show the terrain as you walk us through it.